ATTICS & CEILINGS
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CLEAN OUT & REMOVAL OF EXISTING INSULATION AND DEBRIS
We gather all insulation and misc debris in trash bags or bundle it in plastic. If you have blown in insulation (fiberglass, cellulose, roxul, wood) we suck out the insulation through a 4" hose that's connected to a 22 HP insulation vacuum machine that's mounted in our truck. After, we haul away all the insulation and debris to the transfer station for you.
Attic insulation removal and install
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ATTIC BLOWN-IN & BATT INSULATION INSTALL
Many homes in WA are below the current WSEC of R49 (16 -16.5" depth of insulation) in the attic. This can be achieved through adding blown-in or traditional batt insulation. Heat rises, making the attic the most important piece of your building envelope. Some home owners try to insulate their own attics, but there can be some risks involved: blocking ventilation, compressing batt insulation, installing the wrong R-value, using faced batt insulation, not installing the correct amount of bags per manufacturer, using incorrect settings on a blow machine. Any of these can result in ventilation blockage, future mold growth, fire and safety hazards, exposure to fiberglass (health), incorrect and inadequate insulation just to name a few risks. We recommend using blown-in insulation in your attic. Blown-in insulation compacts and conforms to every square inch of your attic, and forms a continuous blanket of insulation to custom fit your attic. It's more cost effective and a more energy efficient product vs traditional batt insulation. Blown-in insulation is also a faster application in the attic than batt insulation.
***Savings on energy bills vary. Higher R-Values mean greater insulation power.
ATTIC FOAM AIR SEAL PENETRATIONS
Insulation is a great thermal barrier but is not necessarily a good air barrier. With our attic foam air seal application, we seal around can lights where they penetrate the drywall and where the wire goes into the receptacle. We also seal up the plumbing and wire penetrations that go through the drywall into the heated living space. This helps prevent air and heat leakage from your home. Many new homes require attic air seals in order to pass inspection on a blower door test. For more info on blower door testing go to:
HEAT DUCT REPAIR & REPLACEMENT
In gas heated homes, heat ducts are the main source of heat/air flow to help regulate the temperature inside your home. Sometimes you will notice that each vent blows a different volume of air. This can be a result of: disconnected or damaged heat ducts, something might be blocking/obstructing the air flow through the heat ducts or constricting/compressing (mount straps) the pipe and making it smaller in diameter, holes or rodent damage on the pipe, air leakage through poorly sealed heat duct seams, defective/old air filter, setting on the furnace or a brand new furnace may be needed (depending on age). Again, these are only a few causes of the problem. We can repair holes in metal heat ducts with sheet metal that we fasten with screws to the area and seal with mastic to make it all one continuous piece. If the straps on mounted flex ducts are adjusted too tight, we can loosen the straps to relieve the flex duct allow the pipe to expand back to it's original diameter. If possible, we recommend converting your flex heat ducts to all metal heat ducts. This can be costly, but it's a much more efficient system to maximize air flow and we can seal all the seams with mastic to eliminate air leakage. Ask us about converting your flex ducts to all metal heat ducts.
MASTIC SEAL HEAT DUCT SEAMS (ATTIC)
Unsealed heat ducts can result in lots of heat loss and air leakage. Heat from the ducts can leak into your attic making the furnace work much harder, shorten the lifespan of the furnace and make it very inefficient. The leakage can also heat up your attic causing the wood to sweat, this creates condensation and possible mold issues in the future. Also, the dirty and unsanitary air from your attic can seep into the heat ducts, when the furnace turns on that air will blow through the vents and into your home bringing down the air quality inside your home. Before, heat duct seams were sealed with duct tape, metallic tape or had no seal at all. We've found that mastic is the most effective method to sealing heat ducts and preventing air leakage.
MOLD & MILDEW TREATMENT
Mold and mildew are types of fungi; typically, mold is black or green, and mildew is gray or white. Mold tends to grows on food, whereas mildew is an issue on damp surfaces, like bathroom walls, basement walls, attics or fabrics. We offer a 2 coat treatment process that helps clean, kill and get rid of that musty mold smell. Before any mold treatment is performed, we recommend proper ventilation in the attic. You may need additional roof jacks, eave vents, ridge vents installed. Consult with a roofing or restoration co. to calculate proper ventilation needed per attic size. This will help remedy and prevent future mold/pre-mold.
VENT RE-SCREENING & RODENT EXCLUSION
A rodent or bird entering your attic can cause a great deal of damage to the insulation and can build a strong smell that can seep into your home. Vent re-screening can be important to prevent rodents, birds, etc. from entering your attic.
***We offer this service as a repair to your existing vent screens.
VENTILATION (ROOF JACKS & EAVE VENTS) & BAFFLING
Baffles are installed at eave vents to prevent insulation that's blown-in or batted from blocking ventilation, this assists in prevention of future mold and allows the air in the attic to flow from properly from the eave vents out through the ridge vents. On occasion, we find some attics that don't have enough ventilation. We offer the addition of roof jacks and vents at eave cavities with screens.
Servicing Counties: Snohomish, King, Pierce and Skagit in WA
| Call or Text 425.903.6453
***Savings on Energy Bills vary. Higher R-Values mean greater insulation power.
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