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If there's been rodent activity in your crawl space the insulation can be contaminated with odor, germs, feces, urine, and other forms of bacteria. Commonly, we end up removing many live and dead rodent carcasses from inside the joists while pulling down the existing insulation or find some lying on the vapor barrier. This is why we recommend that you consider hiring us to complete the clean out for you as we are certified to complete this job safely and effectively. We gather all insulation, vapor barrier and miscellaneous debris in trash bags or bundle it in plastic. Then, we haul away all the insulation and debris to the transfer station for you.

Attic insulation removal and install

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Insulation is installed at the crawl space joists of your home to help create a thermal barrier to trap the wanted heat or cool inside the living space your home. The crawl space joists come in many different depths and it's recommended to fill the cavities to full depth to prevent a gap above the batt insulation. This gap above can create air flow that can make your floors cold. Here are the recommend batt Rvalues for a variety of joist depths:


***Savings on energy bills vary. Higher R-Values mean greater insulation power.


Insulation is a great thermal barrier but is not necessarily a good air barrier. With our crawl space foam air seal application, we seal around the plumbing and wire penetrations that route through the joists into the heated living space. This helps prevent rodent entry and air/heat leakage from your home. Many new homes require attic air seals in order to pass inspection on a blower door test. For more info on blower door testing go to:

Blower Door Testing


It's important to have your hot and cold water pipes in the crawl space wrapped with unfaced batt or black foam tube wrap to help prevent your pipes from freezing and possibly bursting. Also, this can allow a quicker delivery of water from your water heater. This can also allow you to lower your water temperature setting, helping you save money on your heating bill. Review the link below for more info:



In the past, metal stay rods or tiger teeth were used to hold insulation in place in floor joists. It's been proven to be a very ineffective method. Daily, we deal with many homes being put on the market and don't pass final inspection due to fallen insulation that hasn't been secured properly. If this is the case with your crawl space, we can implement a more modern technique called twining. We use a pneumatic staple gun that allows us to secure nylon tying twine to the joists. The twine is stapled every 4' in a zig zag pattern through the whole crawl space and is strategically stapled to prevent batts and seams from drooping/sagging. When done properly, your crawl space can look virtually the same (after twine completion) even after 10 - 20 years (barring any rodent/water damage).


We install 6mil black poly vapor barrier over exposed ground in crawl spaces. This helps prevent moisture released from the earth to seep up and grow onto your crawl space floor joists. This can contribute to future mold issues if not installed properly. It also makes the crawl space a cleaner and more workable area. When we perform clean outs we always remove the existing vapor to assist in the removal of left over insulation fibers, debris, rodent carcasses, feces, urine and other bacteria. Upon completion, your crawl space will have a much cleaner look.


Unsealed heat ducts can result in lots of heat loss and air leakage. Heat from the ducts can leak into your crawl space making the furnace work much harder, shorten the lifespan of the furnace and make it very inefficient. The leakage can also heat up your crawl space causing the wood to sweat, this creates condensation and possible mold issues in the future. Also, the dirty and unsanitary air from your crawl space can seep into the heat ducts, when the furnace turns on that air will blow through the vents and into your home bringing down the air quality inside your home. Before, heat duct seams were sealed with duct tape, metallic tape or had no seal at all. We've found that mastic is the most effective method to sealing heat ducts and preventing air leakage.


Mold and mildew are types of fungi; typically, mold is black or green, and mildew is gray or white. Mold tends to grows on food, whereas mildew is an issue on damp surfaces, like bathroom walls, basement walls, crawl spaces or fabrics. We offer a 2 coat treatment process that helps clean, kill and get rid of that musty mold smell. Before any mold treatment is performed, we recommend proper ventilation in the crawl space. You may need additional vents installed. Consult with a restoration co. to calculate proper ventilation needed per crawl space size. This will help remedy and prevent future mold/pre-mold.


The entrance to your crawl space can be one of the most vital points in making sure that unwanted rodents or animals do not enter and make damage in your crawl space. This can lead to fallen and contaminated insulation, disconnected heat ducts and a terrible smell throughout your home. We can fabricate an access door that will custom fit your home and will keep the entrance to your crawl space secure. This usually coincides as part of sealing up all entry points in your crawl space. Ask us about pricing, it's a very affordable solution and option.


On occasion, we find some attics that don't have enough ventilation. We offer the addition of crawl space soffit vents above the perimeter of the crawl space rim joist cavities.


A rodent or bird entering your attic can cause a great deal of damage to the insulation and can build a strong smell that can seep into your home. Vent re-screening can be important to prevent rodents, birds, etc. from entering your crawl space.

***We offer this service as a repair to your existing vent screens.


In gas heated homes, heat ducts are the main source of heat/air flow to help regulate the temperature inside your home. Sometimes you will notice that each vent blows a different volume of air. This can be a result of: disconnected or damaged heat ducts, something might be blocking/obstructing the air flow through the heat ducts or constricting/compressing (mount straps) the pipe and making it smaller in diameter, holes or rodent damage on the pipe, air leakage through poorly sealed heat duct seams, defective/old air filter, setting on the furnace or a brand new furnace may be needed (depending on age). Again, these are only a few causes of the problem. We can repair holes in metal heat ducts with sheet metal that we fasten with screws to the area and seal with mastic to make it all one continuous piece. If the straps on mounted flex ducts are adjusted too tight, we can loosen the straps to relieve the flex duct allow the pipe to expand back to it's original diameter. If possible, we recommend converting your flex heat ducts to all metal heat ducts. This can be costly, but it's a much more efficient system to maximize air flow and we can seal all the seams with mastic to eliminate air leakage. Ask us about converting your flex ducts to all metal heat ducts.


Most homes have waste pipes that run through the foundation wall or have some sort of pipe that helps vent to the outside of your home. This creates an open walkway for rodents to enter your home. We seal these penetrations with concrete at the foundation walls and foam where there's wood. Sometimes there can also be wiring or conduit routing outside of the crawl space, which we also address. Screening or wire mesh is used over open exposed tubes or pipes that route outside of the crawl space. Ask about how we can assist you in sealing up all the entry points in your crawl space.

Servicing Counties: Snohomish, King, Pierce and Skagit in WA   |   Call or Text 425.903.6453

***Savings on Energy Bills vary. Higher R-Values mean greater insulation power.

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